Rating: ** 1/2 (2.5 stars out of 5)
For anyone who has read the most recent issue of Los Angeles Magazine, this restaurant is no secret. Splashed across multiple pages, the glowing tidbits of acclaim could only lead to one conclusion - that this restaurant must be moved to the top of your 'must visit' list. I'd like to suggest that you instead place it at the bottom and hope that the flaws are fixed by the time you're ready to visit.
For appetizers, the pumpkin soup with marshmallow was definitely an interesting creation. Kudos. However, the green salad was terribly dressed with a sub-standard olive oil and olives that completely overpowered any delicacy in the greens. Skip the salad, get the soup.
The steak frites entree was the savior of this restaurant's rating. The meat was prepared to near-perfection, and was accompanied by lightly seasoned potatoes fresh from the fryer with a garlic mayo on the side. The sauce ladled onto the meat was perhaps a bit much, considering that an herbed butter was also placed atop the meat, but the meat's flavor still shone through.
The dessert choices were limited and odd; note that the menu presented was entirely different from the one listed on their website at the moment. I ended up with the chocolate bread pudding which was, in effect, chocolate cake with ice cream. It was edible, but a mediocre follow-up to a very good entree.
While the menu has some redeeming qualities, the operation of the restaurant itself is a bit of a disappointment. The wait staff was hurried, rude, and disappeared for minutes on end. Our particular waiter had absolutely no knowledge of the menu, and when asked to recommend a wine, presented the list and said, "any red should be good." Perhaps their no-nonsense style does lend some French authenticity to the wait staff, but no French waiter would have shown that much disrespect to the wines!
Another oddity is that you can't mix the bar menu with the dinner menu, and that the menus are quite different. Typically, a bar menu is just a reduced version of the dinner menu. Not the case here.
A cheese fondue (found on the bar menu) may not be ordered by anyone seated at a dinner table. That would have been my preferred option for an appetizer, but we couldn't order it, and my guess is that the restaurant is being cheap about their tablecloths. (Bar tables don't have tablecloths, dinner tables do.) The same holds true for the chocolate fondue, which would have been a fine dessert, but only appeared on the bar menu as well. This dichotomy would be less of an issue if the bar menu was limited to
the bar, but the restaurant has mixed bar tables with dinner tables, so you might be seated next to someone who's ordering from a different menu.
These operational issues are an easier fix than food-related issues. Generally, the food ranged from decent to excellent, and only needs a modest amount of improvement. But the restaurant could probably use a visit from a restaurant consultant regarding its menu, and the wait staff could definitely use a course on wines and an hour with the chef.
Don't write Fraiche off - there are some good things going on there - but give it some time before going.